Question from Sharon Nuevas via Facebook: “Good am, paano mag-apply ng makeup for daytime, yung parang no makeup?”
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#NoMakeup, #NoFilter. These trending hashtags indicate that natural, "no-makeup" makeup look is now preferable over a too made-up face. These days, less is actually more. But while a naked face may be acceptable in casual settings like at home or in the gym, the no make-up look is the way to go for the office, day-time errands and trips to the mall.
Professional model and makeup artist April Tanhueco of Makeup Redefined shows us how to do a natural makeup look for mestizas and morenas.
Star Magic’s Yana Asistio from the movie “She’s Dating a Gangster” is our model for mestiza look, while triathlete/Zumba instructor, Tal Uy-Chan is for our morena look.
Steps and techniques for both morenas and mestizas are the same. But note that the colors and tones for foundation, powder, correctors, lipstick, eye shadow and blush-on will vary.
A. Preparation: clean and moisturize face, lips and neck
1. Make sure to start with a clean, bare face. Use alcohol-free facial wipes to really clean your face from any dirt, oil or makeup residue. Remember to also wipe your lashes to remove that stubborn mascara.
2. Evenly apply a thin layer of water-based moisturizer. This will help keep your makeup stay on for much longer and make it look more natural.
3. Don’t forget to also moisturize your lips.
B. Base: Foundation, correction, concealer and powder
1. Foundation
Next, you have to even out your skin color by applying foundation all over your face and neck.
Three things to keep in mind: First, make sure you choose the right foundation. Pick the one that is closest to your skin shade and undertone. Shade refers to the lightness and darkness, while undertone refers to whether your skin is cool, neutral or warm. Choosing the wrong one can make your face look greyish or unnatural.
Second, make sure to apply just enough. You don’t want a thick foundation because it will look cakey. Note that most foundations dry up easily so blend immediately and evenly.
Third, don’t forget to apply foundation along your jawline and down to your neck as well. Forgetting to do so will make your face look unnaturally polished as if it’s not part of your body.
For this tutorial, April used Makeup Forever #117 on Yana, and #153 on Tal. But you can also opt for other brands like Kryolan, MAC, and Loreal, whichever captures your skin tone and color best.
2. Corrections
All of us have imperfections and we can easily fix that using correctors to neutralize the color. Use soft orange to correct bluish eyebags; yellow highlight to cancel deep red and purple caused by bruises; muted green to neutralize redness from insect bites and acne; pink highlight to cover grey and brown eyebags and scars; and extra highlight for areas that left indents on your face.
3. Conceal
To achieve a fresh look, special attention must be given to your under-eyes so apply concealer that is two shades lighter than your foundation.
4. Set the base with a powder
Using a powder brush or sponge, set your foundation with a powder of same shade. Keep blending to make it look natural.
C. Contour
Contouring is very important because it will define the depths of your facial bone structure.
Start with a powder that is two shades darker than your foundation. Using a contour brush, apply diagonally, from the hollows of your cheeks towards your ears. You can make a fish face to help you find the right area. Also apply contouring to your jawlines, temple and edges of your forehead.
D. Blush
Because you want to achieve a healthy and natural-looking blush, try to think of how your cheeks look like after a vigorous exercise. That’s the shade you should choose for your blush-on.
As a general rule, fair-skinned ladies should go for shades of pinks, while dark-skinned should go for corals and peach.
Apply the right shade of blush onto the apples of your cheeks. It’s the area directly above your contoured cheeks. Smiling will help you find this area easier. Blend this well by brushing in a circular motion across your cheeks.
E. Eyes
Natural eye makeup should be light shades of pastel colors for mestizas or earth tones for morenas.
Apply a light eye shadow all over the eyelid; light pink for mestizas, light brown or light peach for morenas.
Apply a darker shade along the crease to define the eyes; darker pink or light brown for mestiza, and light to medium brown for morenas. The crease is the part from the outer edge of your lid, unto the area along your brow bone.
Using a black or dark brown pencil, lightly line your eyes. Apply a very thin line right at the edge of your lash line. To add a natural definition, apply on the lashline as well. You can do that by looking down, and lifting your eyelid.
Next, curl your lashes well and apply a moderate coat of mascara. If you have ample lower lashes, apply mascara.
F. Eyebrows
Using either a brow pencil, or brow gel or brow powder and a slanted brush, fill in your natural eyebrows just to add definition. You can add a curve shape towards the tail to really open your face. Use small, feathery stroke instead of strong, long strokes. Again, this will make your face look young, soft, fresh and natural.
Check if your brows are symmetric by tilting your chin upward when looking at the mirror. Your brows don’t have to be 100% identical. Just strike a balanced feel to it.
G. Lips
Finally, finish with a lipstick shade closest to your natural lip color; pinks for mestizas, and peach-browns for morenas. You can also opt to swipe tinted gloss on top, or just go for a tinted gloss alone. Tissue off the excess lip product
H. Finishing touches
You are almost done, but not quite. Clean up the under eye by brushing powder. To brighten the face, apply an illuminator powder at the edge of your cheeks. Blend your makeup once more by brushing all over your face in a circular motion. Just think beautiful thoughts, add a genuine smile, and you’re ready to take on the world!
About the author: Filipina beauty queen, writer and media personality Barbie Salvador believes that fashion, fitness and lifestyle are vital life aspects that are not only fun and enjoyable, but are tools every Filipino needs to reach one’s peak potential.
Got a fashion, fitness or lifestyle question? #AskBarbie
Twitter:@barbiesalvador
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